- No dia em que o ou na RBS TV, o Ivo deixou colocarmos dois aparelhos para todo mundo assistir. Foi muito legal: eles orgulhosos do resultado, e a Lancheria lotada de gente de todas as idades - conta o diretor.

 
Foto: Mauro Vieira

O estabelecimento é um dos marcos que ainda lembram o que foi a Osvaldo Aranha em outras décadas. Foram-se expoentes da vida cultural do bairro, como o Bar do João, o Scaler e o cinema Baltimore. Os punks, músicos e estudantes que ocupavam a rua especialmente nos domingos hoje têm filhos ou até netos, mas o toldo vermelho no número 1.086 permanece e atrai tanto os antigos frequentadores da Osvaldo quanto os recém-chegados à Capital. O segredo? O primeiro cliente, atendido antes mesmo de a Lancheria abrir as portas, tem na ponta da língua:

- Nenhum outro lugar consegue manter ambiente familiar, horário flexível, comida farta, preço bom e uma equipe tão carinhosa e prestativa - resume Dan Levi, comerciante de 80 anos que não fica um dia sem o café e as brincadeiras dos "guris" de boné e jaleco branco.

Seu Levi, como é chamado pela equipe da Lancheria, veio da cidade turca de Izmir para o Brasil em 1956 e se instalou em Porto Alegre. Ele ava pela Osvaldo quando viu o novo estabelecimento e resolveu entrar:

- Não estava nem pronto, mas, como era do lado da minha loja e, na Turquia, a gente tem uma crença de que se a primeira venda é boa, dá sorte, eu insisti. Venho aqui até hoje - conta, abrindo um sorriso.

Patrimônio afetivo

Um problema com a documentação fez com que a Lancheria do Parque se estabelecesse na Osvaldo Aranha. Incialmente, o local pensado por Ivo Salton para abrir o bar e restaurante ficava na Rua Augusto Pestana, no bairro Bom Fim - o que poderia ter mudado completamente o perfil do estabelecimento.

- Estava tudo certo para comprar, mas não funcionou. Então, o Neuro (Turatti, que morreu em fevereiro deste ano) viu o ponto para vender e disse: "É aqui! Bem perto do parque, no meio de tudo" - conta Ivo Salton, 60 anos, chamado de "sócio presidente" pelos colegas.

Salton e Turatti trouxeram parentes e amigos de Encantado e iniciaram o negócio que acabou virando point.

- Meu irmão gostava de noite, de festa. Por isso, ele quis abrir aqui no meio do fervo que era a Osvaldo Aranha nos anos 1980. A gente começou mesmo como bar de trago. E foi gradativamente virando mais restaurante e lancheria - explica Neomar Turatti, 47 anos.

 
Foto: Mauro Vieira

O horário expandido, das 6h à 1h30min - especialmente nos anos 1980 e 1990, quando a vida cultural da Osvaldo era uma das mais pulsantes da cidade -, ajudou a diversificar o público. A Lancheria atraía tanto quem estava indo quanto quem estava voltando da noite ou do trabalho e ou a servir como segunda casa para muitos moradores do bairro.

- Tem um cliente nosso que, quando foi comprar apartamento, disse: "Só pode ser duas quadras antes ou depois da Lancheria. Eu não tenho geladeira e quero continuar assim" - brinca Mauri Fachini, 43 anos, 21 ados no número 1.086 da Osvaldo Aranha.

Os funcionários do bar acompanharam também o desenvolvimento de muitas das bandas da cena do rock gaúcho.

- Para falar de uma, vou deixar muitas de fora, e eles vão ficar tristes, porque são todos nossos amigos. Mas a Cachorro Grande, a Bidê ou Balde, a Comunidade Nin-Jitsu e mais um monte de gente são frequentadores - enumera Fachini.

Divulgado no boca a boca, o estabelecimento virou ponto turístico depois da exibição do curta na TV:

- Chego a ficar nervoso! Dia desses, veio uma caravana do Interior que queria conhecer a "Lancheria". Acredita? Agora, fica o compromisso de atender todo mundo melhor ainda - conta Ivo.

 
Dan Levi, 80 anos
Foto: Mauro Vieira

O Bom Fim vai mudar, velhos prédios vão desaparecer, os frequentadores levarão os filhos, mas, se depender de quem trabalha na Lancheria, vai tudo continuar como está, mesmo que mude:

- Seu Levi, nosso primeiro cliente, vai ter que sair aqui do lado. Venderam o prédio onde ele tem loja. Está todo mundo triste, mas a gente sabe que ele vai continuar vindo aqui, né"> 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