O legado italiano na Serra a pela mesa farta e a transcende. Talvez porque a busca pela comida tenha sido a motivação maior daqueles que deixaram o país de origem em busca da fartura na terra da cucagna (abundância/fartura). Publicações da pesquisadora Cleodes Maria Piazza J. Ribeiro enfatizam que a fome foi o fio condutor da imigração: a fome e a vontade de saciá-la. Nas pesquisas, ela é categórica ao afirmar que a mesa farta, tão presente nas refeições dos descendentes, é um exorcismo da fome dos anteados.
Seja nos filós, nos menarostos ou em mera reunião familiar, a fartura à mesa é sagrada para uma família de descendentes italianos. Na Serra, este gosto por comer bem, mesmo com simplicidade, se traduz no cardápio e no atendimento de restaurantes como o Nona Ludia, o mais antigo do roteiro turístico Caminhos de Pedra, no interior de Bento Gonçalves.
Desde a entrada com sopa de agnolini até o sagu de sobremesa, ando pela polenta, espaguete, nhoque, galeto ou vitelo, cada prato servido carrega a paixão pela comida do casal de proprietários, Jandir Cantelli, 81, e Marisa Cantelli, 72, que comandam a cozinha enquanto a filha, Graziela, gerencia o local.
— A gente trouxe a roça para dentro do restaurante, por isso o fazer caseiro está em tudo. A proposta é que, além do paladar, nosso cliente possa sair satisfeito também com a vivência e com o atendimento. Muitos idosos, principalmente, se emocionam porque resgatam memórias afetivas — comenta Graziela.
Ocupando atualmente os três pisos do casarão construído por volta de 1880 pelo imigrante Giuseppe Dall’Acqua (e adquirido em 1917 pela família Bertarello, de quem os Cantelli locam desde 2003), o sucesso do Nona Ludia tem acompanhado o crescimento do turismo no interior de Bento, impulsionado pelo sucesso de roteiros como o Vale dos Vinhedos e Caminhos de Pedra. O aumento pela procura fez com que o restaurante adaptasse seu cardápio a novas tendências e exigências, com opções veganas, sem glúten e sem lactose. Graziela Cantelli comenta que a clientela se surpreende com a qualidade das massas preparadas dentro destas condições. Surpreender, inclusive, é parte da receita do sucesso:
— Não só nós da família, mas também nossos funcionários são treinados para convencer o cliente a experimentar novos sabores. Muitos chegam dizendo que não gostam de tortéi de abóbora, de molho funghi, etc., mas depois que provam se apaixonam. E, anos depois, a mesma pessoa vai voltar e nos dizer que foi aqui que ela experimentou e ou a gostar de algo que antes não gostava.
Comer é ato identitário
Para o professor da Escola de Gastronomia da Universidade de Caxias do Sul Israel Bertamoni, a culinária italiana caracteriza-se pela valorização de ingredientes frescos, preparações artesanais e pelo forte vínculo entre alimentação e sociabilidade. Mais do que uma técnica culinária, trata-se de um sistema cultural, no qual o comer é um ato identitário e coletivo. Ao estabelecerem-se em colônias agrícolas, essas famílias reconfiguraram hábitos alimentares trazidos da Itália, adaptando-os aos novos recursos disponíveis.
— A gastronomia da imigração é marcada por preparos afetivos que colocam a família no centro da refeição. Massas, polentas, molhos à base de tomate, carnes de a, queijos e vinhos fazem parte desse repertório, sempre associados à fartura e hospitalidade, consequência de um processo de muito trabalho e pobreza — explica.
Na Osteria della Colombina, a proprietária Odete Bettú Lazzari traduz memórias afetivas por meio da comida que serve no porão de chão batido da casa da família. O negócio teve início em 2001, quando ela se viu viúva e responsável pelo sustento das quatro filhas e hoje istra um restaurante que figura entre os cem melhores do país de acordo com a lista é da Exame Casual 2025, que tem a colaboração de 65 jurados, entre os mais importantes jornalistas, críticos e influenciadores da cena culinária nacional. A polenta, a sopa de agnolini, o nhoque... Tudo tem gosto de comida da nonna.
— O descendente de imigrante come bem, come ainda aquela coisa que ele faz, que produz. Como a gente é orgânico, temos selos de orgânico também, a gente produz todas as frutas, as saladas e os temperos. Compramos o mínimo possível — conta.
Ela acredita que a comida é uma forma de ressignificar o legado dos anteados:
— Eu quero que (essa história) seja mostrada, assim você vai aprender a valorizar sua história, seu ado, seus ancestrais. Foram eles que aram toda essa coisa boa para nós, para o Rio Grande, né.
Bertamoni destaca que há diferenças e aproximações quando se compara a culinária italiana à cozinha da imigração italiana. Uma característica comum, porém, é o forte vínculo entre alimentação e sociabilidade, que tornam o ato de comer identitário e coletivo. Confira entrevista:
Quais são as principais diferenças entre a gastronomia italiana e da imigração italiana na Serra?
É importante distinguir a gastronomia italiana tradicional, praticada nas diversas regiões da Itália, da gastronomia da imigração italiana, que é o resultado de um processo híbrido, construído a partir da realidade brasileira. Enquanto a primeira segue padrões regionais específicos (como a culinária napolitana, piemontesa ou siciliana), com uso de ingredientes autóctones e técnicas enraizadas, a segunda nasceu de um processo de ressignificação cultural, condicionado pela escassez de ingredientes e pela abundância de produtos locais. Na Serra, houve substituições e sincretismos alimentares: o milho, ausente nas dietas italianas tradicionais, tornou-se base da polenta; a mandioca, o feijão e a carne bovina aram a integrar o cotidiano alimentar; as uvas americanas, adaptadas ao clima local, originaram os vinhos coloniais. São inúmeras as adaptações observadas na gastronomia da imigração italiana, como no caso do tradicional tortéi. Caracterizado localmente por seu formato e sabor peculiares, esse prato difere do tortelli di zucca italiano, com o qual guarda certa similaridade. Enquanto no Brasil é tradicionalmente servido com molho de tomate, frango ou miúdos, na Itália é comum encontrá-lo acompanhado do clássico molho burro e sálvia. Atualmente, esse molho já é mais utilizado na Serra, mas, no período inicial da colonização, a manteiga não era um ingrediente facilmente disponível na região. Outro exemplo emblemático é o galeto al primo canto, considerado um preparo identitário da região de Caxias do Sul. Sua origem remonta à prática das caçadas de pássaros de pequeno porte, conhecidas como arinhadas, típicas das primeiras décadas da imigração. Trata-se de uma alimentação marcada pela tradição, mas também pela necessidade de sobrevivência e uso dos recursos disponíveis.
Pensando nos dias de hoje, como a gastronomia típica da região italiana na Serra equilibra tradição e modernidade para se manter competitiva no cenário enoturístico">
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